Marching in Faith: The St. Sebastian Procession or Nomenar

Born in a Goan Roman Catholic family, I've always witnessed a number of catholic traditions and festivities which add richness to the Goan culture. For instance, after the most exciting season of Christmas ends and the new year commences, one witnesses the preparations for the procession of St. Sebastian in many of the coastal villages of Goa. Hailing from the village of Assolna, I've witnessed the Nomenar since the dawn of my memory. 

St. Sebastian who was a Roman soldier, was also an early Christian saint and martyr. He was killed by arrows during the persecution of Christians by the Roman emperor Diocletian. He is often depicted tied to a tree or post and shot with arrows.

According to the Catholic Church Calendar, the feast of St. Sebastian is celebrated on 20th January every year. The procession is held a few days before and on the feast day. Being a community event, different villages have their own unique ways of celebration of the feast and the procession. It is held in several villages of Goa, especially Raia,  Benaulim, Assolna, Sarzora, Chinchinim, Orlim, Velim, Aldona to name a few. 

A vibrant event that has been passed on from generations in Goa is known for uniting the  Goan community, wherein people of different religions too, participate with equal devotion. The preparations begin in the villages a few days before the procession. One may see the villagers preparing various decorative items like lanterns, paper buntings (bonderam), stars, etc. The entire route of the procession is decorated with colourful buntings using bamboos and thread which adds colour to the celebration and makes the whole village eye-catching and radiant. 

In several villages, people make lanterns and stars. The use of lanterns, stars and candles adds the element of light to the celebration to symbolize the victory of light over darkness, unity and to ward off evil spirits. In some villages people tie these lanterns and stars to a bamboo. Two people are required to carry one such bamboo during the procession. People also make bigger lanterns called bafor in Konkani using colourful, light-weight paper which are then lit and released in the dark sky. it is a sight to behold when the night sky is sparkling with the lanterns. 

The procession begins in the evening when some locals carry the statue of St.Sebastian in a grand procession. The statue is placed on a palanquin which is decked with beautiful flowers and carried by the villagers the entire way who also chant prayers, especially the holy rosary and sing hymns. In some villages the traditional brass band also parades along with the villagers, playing melodious music and making it a lively celebration.

When the procession reaches the church, the statue is placed in a beautifully decorated spot, prayers are offered and the final blessing is given by the priest. Many families distribute sweets and other snacks to the people gathered at the church, as a gesture of thanking St.Sebastian for answering their petitions. This is the time people release bafor in the sky and after spending some time together in prayerful solidarity and celebration, return home to their daily routine. 

The entire street looks captivating filled with people, young and old, holding lighted candles, stars and lanterns, singing and praying for good health and protection, seeking the blessings of St. Sebastian. It is not just a religious practice, but an occasion which strengthens bonds by bringing the community together. The St. Sebastian procession is a cherished event in the Goan catholic community with its own religious and cultural essence. 

In recent years however the procession has lost its charm. From declining participation by the locals to the use of ready-made decorative items like lanterns bought from the market, the excitement is no longer seen nor felt. Earlier, the villagers would start preparing for the occasion many days in advance which is hardly seen nowadays.

As years are passing we are losing the richness of our culture. Personally, I have heard a number of stories from my parents and grandparents about the different ways they would prepare for the procession, hand crafting all the decorative items, hunting for bamboos and flowers in the neighbourhood for decorating the streets, using palm leaves for making exquisite backdrops and so on. Even the sweets distributed at the church have changed. Earlier people would distribute a number of sweets like locally made biscuits, ladoos, bebinca etc. But now people order snacks and distribute them in packets making it a formal occasion. 

With all these alterations and changes, the question arises, will such practices pass down to the next generation or just their memories?